KASHMIR - 2

Sheikh Abdullah's tomb on Dal Lake. He cut the deal confirming Kashmir's accession to India. His son, Farokh, has been a poor sucessor and instrumental in alienating Kashmir from India. The stern-faced Syed Geelani is one of the founders of the Hurriyet Conference, a coalition of Kashmiri parties demanding independence from India. His close ties to Pakistan and frequent bouts in prison have begun to weaken his standing in the Valley. Mehbooba Mufti, powerful daughter of Mufti Mohammad Sayeed, the Kashmiri Chief Minister. In 1989, Sayeed was Home Minister of India and his other daughter was kidnapped by Kashmiri terrorists. India acquescienced to their demands, which boosted their daring. Coming to power in Kashmir, both Sayeed and Mehbooba are bent on repairing ties betwen Kashmiris and India.

Som Nath Bhatt and his wifeof Nazia Baug village saw their family and fellow villagers looted and shot before their eyes. The army and terrorists blamed the other. Every day the Bhatts walk past the bullets embedded in the giant oak against which the villagers of Nazia Baug were lined up and shot. Houseboats line Dal Lake's shores and none are as elegant as Mr. Ghulam Butt's. But few tourists visit Kashmir and Butt earns just 10 percent of what he did before the 1989 insurgency.
 
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