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It is an age-old practice: The eldest son of every family has traditionally been expected to become a monk, at least temporarily. During their reign, the Khmer Rouge, who considered monks parasites who begged and did no work, tried to stamp out the practice and destroyed about half the country's 4,000 Buddhist temples. And the Vietnamese-backed communist government that followed limited initiates to those too old to fight the war against Khmer Rouge guerrillas. But since those restrictions were lifted a dozen years ago, Cambodians have rushed to reembrace their Buddhist traditions. After the United Nations' ambitious 1991-93 peacekeeping mission in But for Cambodians, reconstructing their traditions has proved more essential. While most of the aid going into For visitors, exploring this phenomenon opens up Cambodia's fascinating and complex culture, while reminding them of the role culture plays in helping make sense of the world. The temples at Angkor Wat have always been where the soul of the Khmer, as Cambodians call their race, has resided. After soaking in the restored beauty of the stone complex, wander its incense-filled inner sanctums to seek out the monks who tend these places. Many of the aged and bent priests risked their lives to hide relics and scriptures from the Khmer Rouge, and are now passing them on to another generation. "I should be dead now. Perhaps I live because there is no one to take my place," says a priest with a wizened but smiling face. "After I teach these boys I can pass on peacefully," he adds as behind him student monks practice draping a statue of Buddha in saffron robes. Since the days of the Indian-inspired Hindus who built the Angkor Empire, which was centered around this complex, and the Buddhists who replaced them, religion has been as essential to the Khmer people "as the air is to a butterfly," according to a local saying. Whether driving on If temples are Intricate and graceful, Khmer dance is art of unwritten traditions passed on by masters to students after years of tutelage. There are 4,500 facial expressions alone; every gesture, even a raised eyebrow, has meaning. After Pol Pot's regime banned classical dance as "counter-revolutionary" and massacred all but eight of A seemingly endless buffet of Cambodian specialties accompanies the dance performance, and the two fit together perfectly. In a foreword to a new book that chronicles ancient Khmer recipes, Cambodia's King Sihanouk writes: "Traditional Cambodian cuisine is one of detail, of small amounts of fresh ingredients with intriguing textures, complex aromas, and exhilarating flavors, combined to create a distinctly light, delicate and healthy cuisine." The idea of a monarch pushing a cookbook may strike some as odd. Yet it shows Fortunately, this is another battle the country has won. Excellent restaurants that serve up both the delectable dishes of the royal court and earthy country fare abound. Like Fresh-water fish is at the center of many meals, flavored with ingredients such as prahok, a fermented fish paste, coconut, lemongrass, cilantro, tamarind, and, of course, fiery chiles. Desserts are sweet, gooey, freckled with coconut shavings and scented with exotic flowers. Sihanouk has bragged that his own culinary creations were relished by his Chinese hosts Zhou Enlai and Deng Xiaoping when he was in exile in Complex, even esoteric, the shrill tones and rumbles of Cambodian music make it an acquired taste. But roadside stalls that offer $2 ripoffs of the latest Britney Spears album have not yet lured Cambodians off their own beat. One vendor said one of his top selling titles was a compilation of traditional Khmer songs accompanied simply by a "chapei dong veng," a two-string long-necked guitar. Perhaps it is because, as Sihanouk once said, "In an increasingly crass and corrupt world art provides the sense that something finer exists." Performances of "ajai," a kind of ancient rap in which two singers improvise around an established harmony, and Pien Peat, the Khmer orchestra, are also being revived and can be found in most cities. But it is not just the classic arts that are nurtured by the culture ministry and international aid programs that are resurfacing in On street corners and in shabby old theaters another ancient magic, shadow puppets, brings to life the legends of Cambodians are also once again celebrating ancient festivals, banned under the Khmer Rouge as being superstitious. Buddhist New Year, in mid-April, brings family gatherings and folk-dance performances of traditional dances and forgotten songs. But it is the Water Festival, which takes place on the day of the full moon sometime between late October and early November that is The 800-year-old festival marks a unique phenomenon -- a reverse in the flow of the To celebrate the changing of the flow, hundreds of giant "pirogues," or canoes, race down the river to a cheering audience of a million people. Brightly colored floats, many in the shape of temples and "apsaras" (dancing goddesses) glide between them. At dusk, people gather in groups to pay homage to the full moon with offerings of incense and fruit. The head priest lights a candle and reads the pattern of its melting wax to make predictions for the coming year. Even if the predictions are not entirely pleasing, the crowd bursts into cheers, and a massive fireworks display ends the day. As night falls you can head for the exclusively titled, but commonly fraternized, Foreign Correspondents Club, a finely refurbished French colonial building with gently swooshing ceiling fans and a fine view of the That the gleaming modernity of In 1995, a fire destroyed the Bassac Theatre, the home of Cambodian drama. The next day Em Theay, the head teacher and a survivor of the killing fields, insisted on continuing lessons outside, under the shade of coconut palms. Poverty may have prevented If you go ...
Sovanna Phum This center, whose name means "magic village," was created by students from the Royal School of Fine Arts as a venue for their arts. Performances of traditional dances, music, or shadow puppets are held every Friday at Cambodian Performing Arts Center The country's foremost dance school. Visitors can observe students as they train and the students usually put on small performances for them, but without their full costumes. Free.
Near Grand Hotel D'Angkor A heritage hotel that accommodates the rich and famous while they explore Angkor Wat. A classical dance is held every evening in the splendid performance hall. Dinner and dance, $16. Follow it with drinks in the convivial Elephant Bar.
Named after the famous temple covered with the eerily smiling faces, this open air restaurant's dance shows are less fancy and less expensive but as interesting as the Grand's. Buffet lays out mix of Western dishes with traditional Khmer fare such as amok, a curried seafood fest, and crispy rice pancakes. Dinner and dance, $12. La Noria Hotel This rustically elegant hotel hosts shadow puppet shows most evenings. Half the entrance fee of $15 goes toward supporting the local foundation that trains children in the art, while the rest buys a delicious Khmer or French dinner. |
